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Review on VIDA DICE Diagnostic Tool VOLVO 2014D

Got Volvo VIDA 2014D diagnostic tool for 80 (anniversary sales, the cheapest among several webs I went) from www.eobdtool.co.uk. It took 4 days to come here after I ordered it online. Well packed with a plastic box, including VIDA DICE device with OBD II cable, USB A to mini USB angled cable, and also a DVD with activated VIDA 2014D the English version.

Here are the pic about my VOLVO VIDA DICE Interface and the high-quality PCB of Dice.

I just got mine up and running. But I was never able to get my VIDA DICE to run on Win7 but after buying a Dell620 with XP SP3, it works well. It has some quirks with the pop-up windows but I been able to read and reset all the codes, re-program light delays, remove the after blow (annoys me to have a car that is doing stuff on its own, let it mold...)

I also reset the TCM so it shifts better.

Well worth it, although it would be better if the dice device can be used with Bluetooth. And it is a little inconvenient for the VIDADICE 2014D diagnostic tool to update softwarevia CD only.

Remember that it is also a service handbook in VIDA. its not only the diagnostics.

Ps. VOLVO VIDA DICE 2014D installation instruction for sharing:

Solution for 2005 Volvo XC70 no AWD concerns wheels slipping

Volvo diagnostic tool I use:
Volvo VIDA 2014D from obdtool.co.uk for €108.49 plus shipping to Netherlands

Car model and year:
2005 Volvo XC70

Car issue:
Got strange wheels slipping today when pulled hard from the stop. No blinking traction icon. A loud clank coming from rear end when I slowly turn with steering wheel at utmost position, sounds like ABS or, perhaps, it is ABS. Roads in MA are currently covered by usual crap left after snow has finally melted.

This is what I saw in a test drive with DiCE/VIDA attached to the car:
In neutral:

In drive, pulling from the stop, not very hard:

In R, backing up the hill:

I see nothing criminal. Oil pressure sensor shows linear reaction to AWD demand, does not look like stuck sensor, which jumps from idle pressure to purge valve release pressure.

Also there's inactive DEM-0006, which has happened at 204900 km, car has now 2062000 km (128113 mi). According to my notes, at the time of this error registered the car had other electrical gremlins, including no starts.

Pulled the DEM plugs, blown with compressed air. Plugs were clean, no signs of oxidation.

Other info on the car: when I bought it in November 2012, it had 80k miles on the clock, dealer serviced. I did stage 0 and, among other things, replaced AOC filter and oil. Both were clean, apparently recently changed. Angle gear had signs of removal, I bet collar sleeve was replaced. AWD was working in this winter, car plowed really well. 2 or 3 weeks ago I called it a season and swapped winter tires Generals Alitmax Arctic (licensed Gislaved Nordfrost) with all-season BFGoodrich Advantage T/A, which still had 3 mm (1/8") of thread left before tires call for a replacement. Of course I felt immediately how crappy is the traction on these tires after Generals/Gislaved (Swedes know how to make winter tires). On a rainy day car was banging at the rear in the every turn in a flooded multilevel garage, but that is exactly what I also have heard from the Audi with Torsen AWD in front of me (ABS was engaging).

So what do you guys think I'm looking at? Unsatisfactory worn out tires, which easily loose traction and make ABS upset, or is it the first sign of Haldex heading to Valhalla? I could not replicate torque steer and front wheels spinning on a hard pull, which are easily achievable on wife's FWD V70 with same model BFGoodrich tires.

I solve some problem as following shows:
it was Haldex pump. Replaced, and the rear axle does not feel like living its own life now.

Oil screen on my pump was not that bad... Oil had some clutch material dispersed in it, but still was green, uniform and of about right viscosity.

The job is tough, but not that bad. Probably it is 10x times easier on Gen 4 Haldex, where driveshaft flange does not cover the pump, so no need to drop exhaust and driveshaft for the replacement.

I bought 3 pullers in order to remove the flange on AOC side. The one which worked was actually Craftsman steering wheel puller found at Sears. Two jaw-type pullers didn't work at all.

The dealer managed to damage the main seal when oil was changed (before I bought the car - I know that work was done, and done by the dealer), so it was very slowly dripping through the flange. Lowest bolt was noticeably wet after sitting through the night.

It seems the main reason of failed AOC function was low oil level - didn't check it in two years since the last oil+filter replacement, and not before starting the job, but when I finally got the pump out I've collected way less oil than 0.5 liter I put back at the end. Anyway, after spending slightly over than a day under the car to get to that seal and the pump and the filter, I didn't want to do it one more time when 10-yo pump will finish its brushes or if it is in fact broken.

Though that could be an advise for other XC70 owners: check oil level if AWD started to misbehave, plus you see traces of oil on the flange or anywhere on Haldex unit. At least, if it turns out that the seal replacement didn't fix the leak, I'll be just topping up AOC with oil once a year or so

Volvo dice fixup error code P0015 on 04 S40 1.9T

I got P0015 on my 04 S40 1.9T, then with Volvo Vida 2014D, I solve the problem, to see how I solve the issue, please go on looking at the following parts.

Car model and year:
04 Volvo S40 1.9T, car only has 82k miles

Volvo vida dice diagnostic tool used:
Volvo vida dice interface, I bought from obd tools for 108.49

Well packed without CD broken and speedy delivery, receive the package for 5 working days.

Error code read out by Vida Dice:
P0015: cam bank B over-retard

What work I check:
Checked the VVT solenoid, working fine and the gasket screen/passages are also fine. Car only has 82k miles, no big hurry for timing belt. Clearing the code using obd2 volvo vida dice diagnostic tool would work but would return next day (always). I don't know the history on the motor but I don't think synthetic oil was used.

Problem Solved:
Decided to run 3/4 quart ATF for about 250 miles (4 days) and noticed on the 4th day the cleared code didn't return. Drained the oil, put in Castrol Synthetic and a new filter. Code hasn't returned in a week (longest since I bought the car).

Looking good and a very inexpensive possible fix.

Using VIDA Dice troubleshoot Volvo Civic 2005

Car model and year:
2005 Volvo Civic

My intent and purpose:
My wife is thinking about replacing her trusty 2005 Civic with a wagon of some sort. I already own a Saab 9-2x Aero and thought it'd be comic if we had two competing not-100%-Swedish wagons in the driveway and got her a V50 T5.

I've owned one Volvo before, an 88 744 Turbo, and while it was occasionally charming to drive I was happy to get rid of it at the end. I didn't find the experience to be worth the maintenance effort and cost. I also helped a friend tune an 854 T5 up to ~400 BHP and raced it with him a few times. I appreciate Volvos but would not consider myself a fan or loyalist of the brand - I am not looking at V50 the car because it is a Volvo.
I am looking at the V50 because I want something safe, comfortable/quasi-luxurious (the Saab's interior isn't terribly nice or quiet), and reasonably fun to drive. Its primary purpose would be very short trips around town (my wife doesn't drive much) and longer road trips up and down the interstate. Its secondary purpose would be hauling our future kid and all the accoutrements that entails, and possibly a dog.

My Question:
I haven't driven one yet because none have shown up for sale in my area over the past few months, so I thought I'd possibly save some time by asking the board a few questions:

1) How nice is the interior, actually? To me it looks nice in photos but I've spotted some gripes about interior quality here.

2) How does it handle and drive? I've seen complaints about this as well.

3) AT vs MT? I prefer MT but my wife might insist on an AT. Is the AT super problematic?

4) What about all the other issues with the car? I hear of random needs to reflash tranny and ECU, various front end problems, engine problems, etc. Is there a comprehensive list somewhere?

5) I'm a shadetree mechanic; can I do most of the work on the car myself? How expensive are parts?

6) What problems have you had with your car? In your opinion, is the car worth all the reliability issues I see mentioned on the internet? If so, why?
I guess I should summarize that my primary concern is how much of a headache this car will be. As I've mentioned before, I didn't find my 744 to be worth it. I've owned German cars before and don't mind doing preventive maintenance or otherwise fixing things if the car makes up for it in performance and/or comfort. I'm just not sure about the value/lifestyle proposition of V50 ownership, so I'm hoping you guys can fill me in. 

Answers to #1, 2, & 3 are personal. You'll have to decide for yourself.

#4: A) Electric gremlins: I've hit unlocking gremlins where the car refused to respond to my remote, then cured itself after I "broke into" the car using the blade key.

B) Sunroof drains: the sunroof uses a system of drains at each corner or an open gutter. Any clogs of separated tubes can result in flooding. Easy DIY maintenance.

#5) While the engine layout is, um, "compact," mechanical work is straightforward and VERY rewarding compared to paying 6X the parts cost at a dealer. (e.g. spark plugs are $60 per set, or $280 to have a dealer replace them.) Parts costs are "up there," but they are for all cars. Browse tascaparts.com for a preview. I just priced a timing belt, and it was abut the same as I paid for a Chevy Aveo timing belt kit.

You will want to get a volvo vida 2014d multi-language diagnostic system. It costs about what a single dealer visit costs and gives you an encyclopedia of parts, troubleshooting, and repair procedures for all Volvos. You will still need to go to a dealer for software updating.

I recommend obdtool.co.uk volvo vida 2014 €108.49 to US,

#6: I have been catching up on "deferred maintenance" issues from my PO over the last six months, but I am happy with the solidity and spirit of my V50. Check TrueDelta -- Real Car Owners Driving Real Car Information for other reviews. Remember that there are 50 happy placid owners for each one of us internet hogs.

Volvo VIDA 2014 and OBDLink MX Wifi which better for Volvo XC90

Car model and year: 2013 Volvo XC90

My intent and purpose:
Read error codes and possibly in reading real time car information

Tools I am considering:
VIDA/DICE and adapters such as OBDLink MX Wifi

1. Which solution do you recommend for accessing car information and potentially for altering some car information?
2. Is one of these solutions a greater risk or more likely to cause problems?
3. Are these systems comparable or do the serve different purposes?

1. Volvo Vida 2014 does more, the DiCE unit can access any sensor connected to the engine. Fuel pressure, MAF voltage, etc. Mx (through Obd2) only accesses sensors, but not all of them. 
2. Neither are risky except Vida dice might be if you screw up a software update. 
3. I have both, OBDLink MX is quick and dirty and can be used for any Obd2 vehicle. Volvo Vida Dice diagnostic tool takes more time to set up and is more comprehensive but is Volvo only. Mx can't access all the sensors that Volvo Vida 2014D interface can. I use both and wouldn't want to be without either one because I also drive and service other makes.
4. If it is possible to use the MX in "dumb" direct mode and it is fast enough, you can potentially write software that can do the same as Vida.
This will require information about Volvo specific communication protocols, how to ask, and how to decode response.

I would say it is better to use a plain CAN interface in stead of special hardware designed for OBD2 if you want to write your own software to communicate using Volvo proprietary protocols.


Clone Volvo VIDA DiCE vs. Super VIDA DICE Pro

Dear Susan,
    Hi. I am Metallo from Montreal I am driving a XC70 2006 and a 940 Polar 1997. I’m on your online shop to buy a Vida DiCE unit and found two different ones:

Volvo Vida Dice VIDA all-in-one
Super Volvo Dice Pro + (blue color/silver color)

So what’s the difference? Also does it make any sense to buy the very latest version, Volvo VIDA 2014D?

Dear Mr. Metallo,  
   This is a frequently asked question by Volvo owners. There are several Volvo diagnostic scan tools available in our shop. Here is the attachment table comparison:

2014D VIDA
2014D VIDA
2013D VIDA
Techstream: V9.30.002
VCADS elite V2.40
Operating system
Win 7 Only
Win 7 Only
Win XP Only
Win XP Only
Vehicle Coverage
1999 to 2015 Volvo cars, ambulances, police cars.
2000-2014 Volvo cars, CAN not support vehicle before 1999
Jaguar from 2005-2014
Land Rover from 2005-2014
Toyota from 1996-2014
Volvo from 1996-2013
1996-current truck, Bus, Penta,  
Construction Equipment, Mack, CNHTC,FAW, OEM
Via CD
Via CD
Via CD
Via CD
French, German, English, Italian, Japanese, Korean, Netherlands, Portugal, Russia, Sweden, Thailand, Turkey, China
English, Spanish, French, Swedish, Portuguese, Chinese
English, Spanish, French, Swedish, Portuguese, Chinese
English/ French/ Spanish/ German/ Italian/ Russian/ Hungarian/ Dutch/ Danish/ Chinese/ Norwegian/ Polish/ Turkish/ Czech/ Swedish/ Japanese/ Thai
Read DTC, Clear DTC,
Read Datastream, Actuation, vehicle identification
Read DTC, How to repair DTC, Read Datastream, Actuation, vehicle identification
Diagnostic Trouble Codes, display live data
Read and clear fault codes. Reprogram ECM parameters and ECMS
€ 88
€ 88
€ 52.
€ 149
Volvo VIDA 2014D only support diagnostic functions, cannot support ECU programming

Volvo DiCE unit and super Volvo DiCE pro are built with different firmware support slightly different Volvo years. The newer the software version, the newer year Volvo it covers. Besides, the Vida DiCE 2014D can be installed on Win 7 system, while 2012D/2013D cannot.